Turf Talk

Pruning Trees

2006-03-17T15:03:00.000-07:00

Pruning Trees
By Paul Burke

Pruning your trees and shrubs is a very important part of any maintenance program for your landscape. By pruning on a regular basis you can avoid excessive pruning on plants which have become overgrown.

Why prune:

Five of the most important reasons to prune are as follows. Pruning increases light and air circulation within the canopy. Pruning also can be used to increase the amount of fruit or flowers on a plant. Removing unsightly suckers or water-sprouts is another reason to prune. Returning a plant to its natural growth habit is needed in some cases, certain plants need to be pruned when overgrown. One example of this is the lilac. Pruning can also be used to maintain the size and shape of a plant within the landscape.

When should I prune:

Some plants can only be pruned at specific times of the year. Most plants can be placed into categories based on some of their characteristics. Plants that flower in the spring should be pruned after flowering and before setting buds for the next season. Because they flower early in the spring, buds will develop on the previous year’s growth. Pruning before flowering will not generally injure the plant but you will usually see a reduction in the amount of flowering. Plants that flower in the summer should be pruned during the months in which the plant is dormant before new growth appears. Because the buds occur on current season’s growth, pruning after growth begins could decrease floral development. Cedars and junipers may be pruned at anytime of the year. Spruce and pine can also be pruned at any time. Shorten shoot length (candling) during growth in early summer for best results on these conifers. Deciduous trees can be pruned at almost anytime. Avoid spring pruning as bleeding may occur. Generally this will not harm the tree but can be unsightly to the homeowner.

Pruning tips:

When pruning a tree or shrub, never leave a stub after making the cut. Cut back to a bud or just outside the branch collar. Never remove more than 1/3 of the canopy when pruning. Never make your cuts flush, these cuts remove the closing off mechanism of the plant and will have a hard time healing. Ensure your tools are of the proper size and are sharp.

Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in the province of Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.
For more lawn care information, please visit http://www.fairyring.ca/.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Burke

Moving Houseplants Outside for the Summer

2006-03-12T21:29:00.000-07:00

One of the happiest moments in a houseplant’s life is when it gets to go back outside for the summer. The increased sunlight and fresh rain act as major growth stimulants for tired houseplants. And, it is very fashionable to incorporate houseplants and foliage plants into garden design. Having said that, every gardener has to follow a few simple rules for successfully moving houseplants into the garden.
Houseplants can be moved outdoors during the day after all danger of daylight frost has passed. The temperatures for these first few days should at least be in the low 60’s F or greater than 15 degrees C. to avoid temperature shock. A windless site is also important as a cold wind will quickly chill a houseplant into shock. Leaving a plant outside for only a few hours a day for the first few days is optimal rather than leaving it outside from morning until night.
Plants can be left outdoors at night after all danger of night frost has passed and after a week of daytime acclimatization. Again, do not leave the houseplant outdoors if night temperatures are going to plunge or if there is a cold, raw wind. If you wouldn’t want to be outdoors, neither would your plant.
The key to successful acclimatization of indoor plants to outdoor gardens is slowly acclimatizing the plant to increased levels of sunshine, cool winds and natural rains. Usually a week of moving a plant outdoors in the morning and indoors at night will serve to harden off the tender indoor plant so it will survive and indeed, thrive in its new outdoor location. While we all want to rush the season in seeing our gardens fully leaved out, rushing or pushing indoor plants into cold gardens will only set them back.
Doug Green, award winning garden author of 7 gardening books, answers gardening questions in his free newsletter at http://www.beginner-gardening.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Doug_Green

For more lawn care information please visit www.fairyring.ca

Choosing the Right Mower

2006-03-06T14:07:00.000-07:00

Choosing the Right Mower
By Paul Burke

Nobody is really sure how much time we spend mowing our lawns, but on the average it is about 40 hours per season. With that much time spent pushing these machines along keeping our lawns well manicured you think we would know more about them. In actual fact the mower you are using right now might not be the right machine for the job. Lawn mowers come in two types, rotary and reel and each type has its strengths and weaknesses.

REEL MOWERS:

Reel mowers have been around for a very long time and in recent years have for the most part been replaced by the rotary type mowers. The reel mower is better suited for a small lawn, generally in the 1,000 to 2,000 square foot ranges. Some of the advantages to a reel type mower are that they are quiet, non-polluting machines that provide a better quality cut from the scissoring action they produce. Today's reel mowers are considerably lighter in weight, generally in the 16 to 20 pound range. Improvements in the gears ball bearings, and axles translate into a rolling action that is smoother. These mowers come in a variety of blade patterns but for general lawn cutting a 5-blade pattern is your best bet.

ROTARY MOWERS:

This type of mower was developed in the 1950's and for the most part replaced most reel type mower for a homeowners lawn. Several of the advantages of a rotary mower include a faster cut, adjustments to height are less difficult, and are better at cutting grass at higher heights. All rotary mowers use power to make them operate whether it is electricity or gasoline. They come in a variety of designs such as push, self-propelled, walk-behind or riding mowers. The cutting decks can vary in size from 18" to 24" for most push mowers and up to 36" for a riding mower. The advantage of a riding mower is simple; they mow considerably faster than a push or self-propelled model. Because of their size I would recommend this type of mower for a lot 1/2 or more in size. Any smaller and lack of maneuverability will cause you to go over areas with a smaller mower which the ride-on missed.

A mulching mower is designed specially to re-cut the grass clipping several times to reduce its size, which in turn decompose quickly eliminating the need to bag or rake. There are many after market blades you can purchase to convert your conventional blade to a mulcher. These blades do a fair job but are not as effective as a true mulching mower as it has specially designed baffles underneath the deck which keeps the grass clippings suspended until they are cut several times.

PURCHASING A MOWER:

By doing a little research you will purchase a mower which best suits your lawn. Is the equipment powerful enough and has a wide enough cutting deck to match your lawn? By saving money and buying something smaller and cheaper you run the risk of additional time spent cutting your lawn. One example of this is purchasing an 18-inch push behind mower to cut a 1-acre (42,000-sq.ft.) lot. Using this machine it will take an average person 2 1/2 hours to complete the job. On the other hand a riding mower with a 36-inch cutting deck can usually finish the job in 30 minutes. Buy the highest quality mower you can afford.

Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in the province of Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.

For more lawn care information, please visit http://fairyring.ca/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Burke

How to Build a Waterfall for Your Garden Pond

2006-02-28T19:25:00.000-07:00

How to Build a Waterfall For Your Garden Pond
By Hugh Harris-Evans

Building a waterfall is easier than you think and will add a new dimension to your pool.

When building a waterfall, as with any garden project, you must first consider the design and make a plan. The biggest mistake that people make when planning a pond waterfall is to err on the large side. For a pond measuring 12 ft x 14 ft you should think in terms of a fall of 18-24 inches. The width of the waterfall should be in proportion to the size of your pond. The important point is to make sure that the scale of your construction fits in with the surrounding features and does not spoil the balance of your overall garden design.

The next question that has to be answered is the type of construction you wish to use. There are two basic choices. You can either use a liner and place rocks to form the fall or you can save yourself the trouble and buy a fibreglass unit. Either way you will still have to use your shovel to form the site of the waterfall.

The other requirement is a pump which will be sited in the pool to transport the water to the top of your waterfall. The size of pump that you will need depends on the height and width of the waterfall and also the length of pipe from the pump to the top of the fall. Once you have finalised your plans, consult your
dealer and he will be able to supply you with the correct pump.

To maintain a healthy pond environment with crystal clear water usually involves installing a biological filter. Again your dealer will be able to advise you as to the correct type and size. The filter should be placed at the top of the waterfall so that the water is cleaned before issuing out on to the fall.

Once you have assembled all the equipment it is time to get out your shovel. If your site is level and the soil from excavation of your pond is nearby this can be used as the mound on which to place the waterfall. If you are using a liner you first dig out the channel and then fit the liner. Next place the rocks so that the water can flow over them. It is helpful if you observe a natural waterfall to give you some ideas as to how the rocks can be placed for the greatest effect. Once you are satisfied with the arrangement, use black waterfall foam to seal the rocks to ensure that the water flows over and around them and not underneath. If you have chosen to use a fibreglass preformed model, you will avoid the problem of placing the rocks and will just have to dig out sufficient soil to allow you to fit the unit.

To complete the installation fit the pump, filter and hose and connect to the electricity supply. Providing all is working to your satisfaction, now is the time to relax and enjoy your handiwork.

If you have read this far and are wondering whether it would be just too much like hard work, then consider this. Water soothes and relaxes, inspires reflection, and is a source of beauty. A cascading, bubbling stream adds interest and serenity to the garden, while a waterfall can create a dramatic centerpiece. Building a pond waterfall really is worth the effort.

Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of The Garden Supplies Advisor where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Hugh_Harris-Evans

For more lawncare information, please visit www.fairyring.ca

Planting Trees and Shrubs

2006-02-24T14:49:00.000-07:00

How well your new tree or shrub does is dependent on planting your new addition to your landscape properly. By using the following steps you will go a long way in ensuring the future health of your new tree or shrub.

STEP 1: Choose the right plant for the right location. Ensure soil, moisture, and shade requirements match the plant you have chosen

STEP 2: Care for the plant before planting. Keep the tree or shrub cool and moist as well as shaded. When handling the root ball, be careful.

STEP 3: Ensure the removal of all wires, labels, etc from the plant’s stem.

STEP 4: Dig your hole as wide as possible. The hole you use for your new tree or shrub should be at least 3 times the diameter of the root ball. Make the hole saucer-shaped and as deep as the root ball is high. Make sure the root collar is level or just above the surrounding soil.

STEP 5: Remove wire baskets, burlap, or pot from the root ball. By removing these materials you minimize root system disturbances. If you find it difficult to remove the burlap, cut and peel it back for better watering.

STEP 6: Use soil from the hole you dug. Do not mix in fertilizer, sand or any organic material such as peat moss.

STEP 7: Once the new tree or shrub has been planted in the hole and back-filled using only soil removed from the hole, you can prune any broken or dead branches. Because the tree or shrub is so young do not cut back any of the health branches to reduce the crown.

STEP 8: Water the root zone once a week for the 1st year or two. Do not over-water. The majority of new tree or shrub roots are in the 1st 6-12 inches of soil. Water slowly to decrease the amount of runoff. By watering deeply and infrequently you will encourage deep root development which will aid in stability and strength in later years.

STEP 9: Aside from watering, the next most important thing you can do for your new tree or shrub is to apply an organic mulch such as wood chips, grass clippings or tree bark. This mulch reduces compaction, aids in moisture retention, and helps keep unwanted weeds from utilizing the bare space beneath the tree. Use a circle of mulch approximately 3 times the size of the root ball and increase this as the tree grows.

By following these steps you will help ensure a good start for the newest additions to your landscape.

Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in the province of Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.
For more lawn care information, please visit http://www.fairyring.ca
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Burke

Transplanting New Trees

2006-02-17T06:29:00.000-07:00

Transplanting Trees
By Paul Burke

Problems with transplanting:

Once a homeowner decides to add a new tree or shrub to their landscape there are several factors to consider when doing this. Three of the most important factors are selection of the plant, where they will plant, and the actual process of planting the new addition. Trees and shrubs not planted correctly will show signs of slow growth, poor colour, decline and or may grow too large for the location you have chosen.

Selection:

Many times a homeowner will be tempted to use a lower priced tree or shrub. Often these plants will have an underdeveloped root structure that is unable to support the plant. The root structure may be overgrown from being in a container too long. It may have broken branches or damaged bark. Ensure the plant is suited for the hardiness zone you live in. Check with a local nursery if you are unsure of which zone you live in. If you choose a tree or shrub that will outgrow the location you have chosen, move it to another location. Try to imagine what the plant will look like in 15-20 years, this will aid in your selection of location. By doing this you will cut down on the need for excessive pruning in later years. Generally trees and shrubs of poorer quality will be slow to establish themselves, they will exhibit signs of reduced vigor, die-back, and poor growth.

Choosing your site:

Characteristics of a location will also contribute to transplant problems. Almost all trees and shrubs need a well-drained soil that is moist. Many areas within an urban environment are poorly drained. The soil pH level may be unsuitable for the tree or shrub you have selected. Most trees and shrubs also require a specific sun and shade schedule. A poorly chosen site will affect a tree or shrub in many ways. Poor growth, and or poor colour will occur. Generally speaking trees and shrubs in poor locations will also not respond favourably to a good fertilizer program or good cultural practices.

How to plant:

By planting incorrectly you dramatically increase the chance of your new tree or shrub failing. Several things that can go wrong are as follows. Many times the homeowner will plant too deep or too shallow. By planting too deep you have a good chance of suffocating the roots. This is caused by oxygen deprivation. Planting too shallow can cause exposure of the root structure. This will cause drying out of the root system and kill the plant. Watering improperly is another problem encountered by the homeowner.

By watering too much you run the risk of root decay or you have the potential to drown the roots. By watering too little the plant becomes stressed and could eventually die. Leaving wire, string, rope, or burlap on the plant can encourage girdling which can eventually kill the plant in later years. Improper staking can cause the plant to be blown over in severe weather. If you leave the staking material on too long you once again run the risk of girdling.

Solving the problem:

When you are planting your new tree or shrub ensure you correct as many of these problems as possible. Do not purchase plants with poorly developed root structures. Ensure the plant is compatible with the zone in which you live. Solve any drainage and pH problems before you transplant your new addition. Remove all burlap, wire, string, or rope that has the potential to cause girdling in later years. Make sure you plant at the proper depth. Generally you do this so the top roots are just covered by soil. Water deeply and infrequently. This will encourage your new plant to develop deep roots that will aid in stability in the years to come. Water slowly as this will enable more moisture to be taken in by the plant. Watering quickly causes run-off and is just wasting your time and money. Stake your plant if it is in an exposed area to wind.

Remember to remove the stakes and wire in the second year to prevent girdling. Use a good fertilization program throughout the life of your new additions. Water and prune correctly. By alleviating these problems you will ensure the good health and appearance of your new trees or shrubs.

Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in the province of Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.

For more lawn care information, please visit http://www.fairyring.ca/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Burke

Dog Damage

2006-02-16T15:39:00.000-07:00

Many homeowners have dogs, and one of their most common questions is how can I have a beautiful lawn as well as a dog? If your dog is using your lawn to urinate on, then the simple answer is you cannot. Dog damage to lawns creates circular spots caused by urine burns. Generally it is the female and young males, which cause the greatest damage. This has nothing to do with the fact they are female, or young males, urine is urine. It has more to do with the way in which they urinate. Adult male dogs will urinate on shrubs, or areas around power poles, playground equipment or fence posts. They do this to mark their territory. Females tend to squat while urinating, causing a greater concentration on one area. Because of the high concentration of salt and urea, it causes a circular dead spot. Normally a ring of healthy grass will surround the dead patch. This is caused by nitrogen in the dog’s urine, which acts as a fertilizer.

PREVENTING DOG DAMAGE:

Having one certain area such as a graveled dog run goes a long way to keeping the majority of your lawn green and healthy. If you are unable to provide such an area, watering immediately after dilutes the urine and may prevent the damage from occurring. This must be done soon after the dog urinates, or this is ineffective.

REPAIRING DOG DAMAGED LAWNS:

Areas of grass, which have been damaged by dogs, have a very high concentration of salts, nitrogen, and urea. Generally if you put down seed in these areas, it will not germinate. You must first water the damaged areas to leach out as much of the chemicals as possible. Roughly rake out the dead area, and then add appropriate seed to the damaged area. Top dress with approximately ¼ of an inch of topsoil and keep the seed slightly moist until germination. Do not fertilize these areas until the root structure has a chance to become established. Generally 4-5 cuts are sufficient for this to occur.

Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in the province of Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.

For more lawn care information, please visit http://fairyring.ca

Controlling Aphids

2006-02-15T14:32:00.000-07:00

Aphids are an insect with a soft body that utilizes their mouthparts to pierce and suck the sap from plants. These colonies of insects can usually be found on the underside of newly growing terminal growth. If a leaf becomes heavily infested it will appear yellowish and will eventually wilt. This is caused by the colony removing large quantities of the leaf's sap. Much of the damage caused by aphids is cosmetic, meaning it looks unsightly to the homeowner. Generally speaking a healthy tree or shrub is able to withstand several years of aphid attacks. While consuming the sap of trees and shrubs, aphids produce a liquid, sugary waste product commonly known as "honeydew". If you have ever parked your vehicle under a tree and noticed a sticky residue on it you have experienced this. Sooty mold can also grow on these sugary deposits found on the branches and leaves. This causes them to acquire a blackish discolouration.

THE PROBLEM BEGINS:

Winged aphids or "colonizers" will fly around searching for a suitable host tree or shrub. Once they have found such a plant, they will drop wingless young on the new growth and continue on their way. These nymphs feed voraciously on the sap and increase in size. In 7-10 days they will mature and are capable of producing live young, generally 40-60 young each. The interesting thing about this is that most are born female. This creates a population explosion in no time. An example of this is fewer than 12 colonizers can produce hundreds if not thousands of offspring in just a few weeks. This process continues until the plant can no longer support the population. At this point, new winged aphids are produced and the cycle is repeated.

CONTROLLING APHIDS:

By discovering the aphids early you can minimize the effects they will have on your trees and shrubs. Keep an eye on terminal growth. Examine underneath new leaf growth for groups of aphids. By being vigilant you can usually control theses colonies by hand, either crushing them or pruning. If however, you discover aphids on more than 10% of your plant, you may want to consider using a contact insecticide to control them. As this is an insecticide please be sure to follow the instructions on the label carefully before and when applying them to your plants. For a contact insecticide to work effectively you must actually hit the aphids before control will be successful. Ensure you use an even thorough spray pattern when applying. Concentrate on growing points and protected areas within the plant. If possible spray underneath leaves for effective control.

CULTURAL CONTROLS:

As stated earlier, you may be able to control small populations of aphids by crushing them by hand or by pruning out affected areas. A good rinse with your garden hose will also dislodge some of the colony. Ladybugs and lacewings are also very effective at controlling aphids. These predators will consume large quantities of aphids

Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.

For more lawn care information please visit http://www.fairyring.ca

Grass Clippings

2006-02-12T16:51:00.000-07:00

To bag or not to bag, that is the question!

Many homeowners who take the time to cut their own grass are throwing away free fertilizer which could be utilized by their lawn to maintain itself during the growing season.

By bagging and getting rid of your grass clippings you are throwing away free fertilizer. Grass clippings contain many nutrients that when used by the soil enhances the lawn's ability to fight disease, insects and drought. Generally speaking with weekly mowing a 1,000 square foot area will generate approximately 2 pounds of nitrogen from the clippings. By using a mulching mower you even decrease the size of the clippings making them even less noticeable.

If you leave the grass too long and then cut you create large areas where the clippings are too thick to be utilized by the lawn. These clippings should be raked up as summer heat can cause a greenhouse effect underneath and cause damage to the lawn.

By mowing 1-2 times a week at a height of 2 1/2 to 3 inches with a sharp mower blade, the clippings will begin to break down very quickly. Usually within a week the plant will utilize the nitrogen from these clippings and encourage new growth.

Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in the province of Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.

For more lawn care information, please visit http://fairyring.ca

Choosing the Right Lawn Sprinkler

2006-02-10T19:02:00.000-07:00

Choosing the Right Lawn Sprinkler by Paul Burke

CHOOSING THE RIGHT SPRINKLER Sprinklers come in 4 basic designs. Each of these sprinkler types has their advantages and disadvantages. Lawn size, frequency of watering and soil types are all important factors when choosing which type of sprinkler is best for you. Of the 4 basic designs a stationary or fixed sprinkler is probably the worst type you can purchase. These types of sprinklers work best for spot watering or used in conjunction with another sprinkler system. Varying flow rates are this type of sprinkler's greatest disadvantage. At the outside edge of the spray pattern the grass can receive upwards of 6-8 inches of water while at the base it may only receive 2 inches of water per hour. This is due to the water being directed through the fixed pattern of small holes in the base. Oscillating sprinklers use a curved piece of metal or plastic with small holes that move back and forth to deliver the water in a rectangular pattern. By pausing when the spray is furthest away this sprinkler does a better job of delivering the water in a more effective pattern. More up to date models will allow you to adjust this pattern as well as adjusting the width of the spray. Revolving sprinklers use one or more arms to throw the water in a circular pattern. This type of sprinkler has a fairly decent radius but suffers in the uniformity of the water being delivered to the lawn. Generally speaking the majority of the water is delivered to an area 4-9 feet out. For a large area an impulse or impact sprinkler is a good choice. By using a combination of a jet internally and a hammer externally this sprinkler can shoot jets of water in a circular pattern. On many models the head is adjustable from a fine mist to a strong pulse or anything in between. Coverage is good with this type of sprinkler. One of the more odd sprinkler systems is what is known as a traveling sprinkler. I haven't come across too many of these which is too bad. This system while looking a little bizarre gives good thorough coverage and excellent rates of moisture. The sprinkler follows the hose or track laid out by the homeowner. By varying the hose pattern you get excellent coverage. The pressure of the water exiting the rotating arms propels the unit along. For most homeowners the choice for a sprinkler system would be an in-ground system. By installing the sprinkler heads at key locations you ensure uniform coverage and excellent water delivery. Most units come with a timer to make watering your lawn even more convenient. Some models also incorporate a sensor to let the system know if it has been raining to curb the cost of your watering bill. The spray heads pop up from the lawn when activated and return to their almost hidden position when finished. When having your lawn aerated ensure the heads are clearly marked to avoid damage to them while the lawn is being aerated.

About the Author
Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in the province of Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.

For more lawn care information, please visit www.fairyring.ca

Garden Design

2006-02-08T13:26:00.000-07:00

Garden Design: How to Choose and Place Garden Art in Your Backyard by Deborah Boland

Garden Design: How to Choose and Place Garden Art in Your Backyard

Your backyard should relax and refresh you, but it should also delight you! Choosing garden art that reflects your personality and makes you feel good is an important key to creating the ultimate backyard.

Art can mean many things to many people but basically there are 3 types:

1. Formal Art Think larger stately pieces that you see in more traditional backyards, like a classic sculpture of a Greek goddess or a stone angel. Heavy iron garden ornaments like obelisks and sundials also work well with most backyard landscape designs.

These pieces create an old-world feel and lend a sense of drama to the yard. Others might include columns, carved fountains, birdbaths, and classical architectural salvage.

2. Semi-formal This is the most popular type because it suits so many styles of backyards. It's more relaxed in theme, a little more nostalgic and decorative.

For example, light hearted sculptures of animals or children in concrete, resin or bronze, contemporary metal sculptures of flowers and insects, stained glass stepping stones, artistic birdhouses, and hand painted garden pots, copper wind chimes.

3. Informal Art I call this art "your imagination gone wild". Everyday objects are placed in the garden to create art that is fun, whimsical, and even campy.

I've seen all kinds of items used as garden décor like: old rubber boots planted with flowers, a nostalgic wire bedroom headboard , an antique window frame, an old-fashioned bathtub, a dressmaker's dummy, and fancy china plates.

Remember that the type of art you choose should be in keeping with the feel of your backyard but it should also be an expression of you.

The most important thing is that you should feel some emotional attachment to your garden art.

Tips for placing Garden Art In the garden, art becomes a focal point. Your eye is naturally drawn to it and it commands your attention. So where you place it is important. Put garden art:

* In a boring, bare part of the yard to add interest and stimulate conversation

* At the end of a path to add drama

* In any area to add comic relief. I have a cute bronze frog lying on a back on a lily pad beside my waterfall and pond.

* In front of an ugly spot to hide dead patch * Directly in line with an unwanted view of the neighbour's yard to create privacy

* On a wall or fence to visually break up the long monotonous line. I have a beautiful concrete painted face hanging on one part of my fence and a mirror hanging on another to add interest.

* In front of a colourful burst of foliage to punctuate the space. My classical white bird bath looks gorgeous just in front of my huge pink rose bush

* Hidden behind some greenery so it just peeks out a little to create a feeling of antiquity. This will put plants in the spotlight.

* Within the frame of a beautiful view to enhance the view even more. My backyard is on the lake and the view is made even more beautiful by a large fountain of Poseidan the sea God that we have made part of the view. * In a rock garden to create feeling of garden gallery. The rocks are natural pedestals for the art and create a wonderful playground for eye to bounce around in and land on art.

Don't forget about the view from inside. Take a look out your window to see where you might place art so that it draws you out into the backyard.

Finally, less is more. Too much garden art will make your backyard look junky. All you need is a few interesting pieces to personalize your backyard and give it a sense of place.

Deborah Boland © 2006 All Rights Reserved

About the Author
Deborah Boland is the host of the popular HGTV Canada TV series, Backyard Pleasures and author of Backyard Pleasures: 7 Simple Steps to Transform Your Ho-Hum Backyard into a Breathtaking Oasis. Sign up for her FREE e-course 7 Secrets to Creating Gorgeous Garden Rooms at www.backyardpleasures.com & or visit her blog at www.backyardpleasuresblog.com

For more lawn care information please visit www.fairyring.ca

Mower Maintenance

2006-02-04T10:22:00.000-07:00

Mower Maintenance for a Perfect Lawn by David Chandler

Growing and maintaining a lush green lawn takes care and the right equipment. The right lawn mover for your landscape and proper maintenance of your equipment will ensure a nice even lawn. A good lawn mower should cut the grass and not tear or rip it out.

The first thing to consider when purchasing a lawn mover is your landscape. Is your lawn on a slope or flat ground? What type of mower can get the job done with the least amount of effort? Another factor is how easy the mower is to maintain for peak performance.

If you have to cut grass on a slope, the best type of lawn mower is one with high wheels. This will make it easier to push up a hill, or to move back down the hill with. The second type of lawn mower is a cordless or electric mulching lawn mower. The mulching mower is less messy and mulches your lawn. The third type of lawn mower is a reel lawn mower. Reel lawnmowers are environmental friendly, not contributing to pollution and are easy to use.

After deciding on the type of lawn mower to purchase, review the maintenance schedule. A good maintenance program will allow your mower to last for years to come and give your grass a better cut. Every spring, the different parts of the lawnmower should be cleaned or repaired. Spark plugs should be cleaned or replaced for good firing and nuts and bolts should be checked and tightened where necessary.

The underside decking should be cleaned throughout the season to remove build up of grass and dirt. Cleaning the grass and dirt will also help in preventing the spread of diseases in grass. In order to clean the deck of the lawnmower, you should first empty the gas tank and make sure that the spark plug is not connected. You can then stand the mower up on its side and spray the mower with water. You can then scrub off the rest of the dirt and grass that is stuck on the mower. Make sure to dry the mower after you have finished rinsing it off, to make sure that none of the parts rust.

Your maintenance should also include checking the oil and air filters. The air filters should be cleaned or replaced on a regular basis. Before removing the filter to replace, make sure that you know whether it is paper or foam. The oil in your lawn mower lubricates the engine. Be sure you read the operating instructions on the type and amount of oil your mower uses.

Another important part of maintenance is sharpening the blades every one or two months, depending on use. Sharp blades ensure a clean cut rather than ripping out the grass. This can be easily done by removing the blade from the mower and sharpening it with a file.

When mowing season is over, there are certain steps to properly store your lawn mower for the winter. It is advisable to remove the oil and gas, and clean the exterior.

With consistent and proper care of your lawnmower, you will be able to keep your lawn looking great through the seasons and years, and your mower will last for years too.

For more information about lawn mowers and your lawn, visit http://www.lawnmowersinfoguide.com and http://www.lawninfocenter.com

About the Author
David Chandler For your FREE Stock Market Trading Mini Course: "What The Wall Street Hot Shots Won't Tell You!" go to: http://www.stockmarketgenie.com

For more lawn care information visit www.fairyring.ca

Ornamental Grasses

2006-02-02T07:30:00.000-07:00

Ornamental Grasses by ElmerFizz

Ornamental grasses may be grown in your garden amongst the flowers or clumped in an open space for a natural effect and to add a vertical dimension. If you decide to add them to a flower garden, choose the type carefully, for some are extremely invasive and others may cast unwanted shade over your flowers.

Ornamental grasses differ from lawn grass in that frequent mowing weakens and eventually kills them. They can be small, clumping ground covers like blue fescue or the popular mondo grass, or stately spires like Chinese Silver Grass, towering to 20 ft. Some, like Red Switch Grass, have beautiful fall color. For a grass with strong colors try Imperata cylindrica 'Rubra'. It has tallish straplike blades of deep burgundy mixed with a green that is almost jade.

Tall grasses can be stunning used as a single specimen in the middle of the lawn, or in a landscape with trees and rocks. Most grasses have few diseases or pests to worry about and nothing could be easier to care for, so if you are pushed for time or not into major gardening, ornamental grasses may be the ideal solution.

The beauty of many grasses is not only in their leaves but the seed. Often seed is born in tall spires above the clump and not only hangs on for months, but offers food to birds and insects. Pennisetum villosum has soft and fluffy seed heads in the late summer, while the delicate feathery seed heads of Stipa calamagrostis will last right through to fall. Stipa gigantea is a larger variety as the name suggests. Many seed heads last for ages when picked and dried and make wonderful indoor decorations.

Many grasses also have flowers that are attractive, like Melica uniflora, which has tiny, beadlike flowers borne on slender, arching spikes. It requires shade to grow well and looks fantastic teamed with ferns. Some grasses like Lamarckia aurea, are annuals. This one has unusual downswept flower spikes.

Shorter grasses can also be used for borders and edgings, enclosing pretty annuals within a green framework. Blue fescue grown with black mondo grass can give an unusual and effective, yet extremely simple appeal in a small garden if grown in a checkerboard pattern. Use the grasses alone, with small, clumping annual flowers or even squares of white pebbles to give a lift. Phalaris arundinacea 'Feesey's Form', the less common variety of gardener's garters, has a white stripe down the center of the leaf that makes it most attractive.

Many woodland grasses thrive in heavy shade in spite of the root competition of overhanging trees, because this is similar to their natural habitat, so if you have a spot that is difficult to grow flowers in, think in terms of grasses instead.

Warning! Ribbon Grass, though beautiful, is one of those that are extremely invasive. Plant it in a bottomless container to prevent it spreading.

Red Baron or Japanese Blood Grass, so called for its beautiful coloring also spreads, but is not so invasive as Ribbon Grass. Lemon grass, while not madly attractive, can be picked and steeped in boiling water for a calming tea.

There are many other beautiful ornamental grasses for the garden other than those mentioned above. The only trouble is in deciding which ones to leave behind.

http://www.gardenjargon.com

For more lawncare information please visit www.fairyring.ca

Standing Water

2006-01-30T19:22:00.000-07:00

Getting Rid of Standing Water in Your Yard by Michael McGroarty

Do you have one or more areas in your yard that hold water after a rainfall? This is a common problem, and sometimes difficult to solve. Over the years I've talked with dozens of people trying to battle this problem, and on several occasions I have been hired to solve the problem. So what can be done? Too often people come to me asking what kind of a tree, or what kind of shrubs can be planted in a wet area to dry it up. This is the wrong approach. Most plants, and I mean almost all plants are not going to survive in an area where the soil is soggy for extended periods of time. The roots need to breathe, and planting a tree or shrub in a water area will kill it. Another common approach is to try and fill the area with topsoil. Depending on a variety of variables, this can work, but many times adding additional soil to a wet area will only shift the water to another area just a few feet away. If you are lucky enough to have some natural fall to your property, or a drainage ditch nearby, this problem is easy enough to solve. If you happen to live in an area that was developed over the past few years, there might even be a system to remove storm water nearby. In many new home developments I've seen stormwater catch basins already installed in backyards. Trust me, this is a good thing. There is nothing worse than having a soggy yard all the time. If you are fortunate to have some fall to your yard, or a stormwater system that you can drain water into, this problem is easy to solve. Make sure you check with your local officials before you do anything at all with a storm drain.

All you have to do is go to your local building supply center and buy some 4" perforated plastic drain pipe. The best kind for this purpose is the flexible kind that comes in 100' rolls. This type of drain pipe has small slits all around the pipe. These slits allow water to enter the pipe so it can be carried away. Just dig a trench from the center of the low area you are trying to drain, to the point that you intend to drain it to. Using a simple line level you can set up a string over top of the trench to make sure that your pipe runs downhill all the way. A line level is a very small level that is designed to attach to a string. Any hardware stores sells them for just a couple of dollars. Set the string up so it is level, then measure from the string to the bottom of your trench to make sure you have constant fall. You should have 6" fall for every 100'of pipe. The highest point is going to be the area that you are trying to drain, so you only want your pipe deep enough at this point so it can be covered with soil. Once the trench is dug just lay the pipe in. At the highest end of the pipe you'll need to insert a strainer into the end of the pipe to keep soil from entering the pipe. Cover the pipe with some washed stone, and then backfill the trench with soil. The washed stone creates a void around the pipe so that the water can find its way into the pipe.

Washed stone is usually inexpensive stone that has been washed so it is clean and free of mud. The only part of the pipe that needs to be exposed is the low end, where the water exits the pipe. Do not put a strainer in that end. If you do not have anywhere that you can drain the water to, you still might be able to do something. But first consider what is happening, and why the water is standing where it is. Even if you have well drained soil, water cannot soak in fast enough during periods of heavy rain, and it runs across the top of the ground and eventually finds the lowest point, and either leaves the property, or gets trapped. If you have well drained soil, the trapped water usually soaks in. If you have heavy clay soil, the water lays there, and the soil underneath becomes very compacted, and the problem compounds itself. The more water that stands, the worse the drainage gets.

What I have done in areas like this, where there is standing water, but nowhere to drain it to, is to install a French drain system that actually carries the water away from the low area, and allows it to seep into the ground over a larger distance, where the soil is not quite so compacted. To install this French drain system you do everything exactly as explained above, except instead of draining the water to a lower area, you can send it in any direction you like. Even in the direction from which it came, which is uphill. When installing this type of system, it's a good idea to dig a number of shorter trenches, all heading away from the area where the water stands. Using the line level, make sure your trenches fall away from their point of origin so once the water enters the pipes it will flow away from the wet spot. What is going to happen is that during times of heavy rain the low area is still going to trap water, but much of that water is going to seep into the drain pipes and eventually leach into the soil under each trench. Because this soil has not been compacted by the standing water and the baking sun, it will accept the water. It won't happen nearly as fast as if you could just drain the water to a ditch, but at least you will have a mechanism in place that will eventually disperse the water back into the soil. It's a lot easier to leach 200 gallons of water into a series of trenches that total 100 lineal feet, than it is to expect that water to leach into a 10' by 10' area that is hard and compact.

About the Author
Mike McGroarty, the author of this article, would like to give you this Ebook: "The Gardener's Secret Handbook". Stop by his http://www.freeplants.com website and get your copy right now. It's his way of saying hello! Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

For more lawn care information visit www.fairyring.ca

Soil Types

2006-01-25T16:06:00.000-07:00

Characteristics of Different Types of Soil by Alex Fir

The most important factor when beginning to cultivate your garden is to know your soils texture. Take a handful of moist soil and roll it between your palms until it forms a sausage shape. If it feels gritty and breaks apart immediately, the soil is predominately sand. If the soil feels smooth, and holds its shape for a short time before breaking apart, it is mostly silt. However, if it feels sticky and holds together, then it is clay.

Sandy Soil Easy to cultivate and warm up quickly in spring. It drains well so the plants do not stand with their roots in water for too long. However, as it drains quickly, plants need to be regularly watered and fed if they are to thrive.

Silty Soil This soil type is richer in nutrients than sandy soil. It is also heavier because it can retain moisture and has a tendency to become compacted. It does however tend to drain well and much easier to cultivate than clay. Clay Soil Weighty to lift and difficult to work. Drainage is usually bad; the soil is acid and clinging to the feet in wet weather. When preparing the beds for vegetables in clay soil, the organic fertilizer should be added at a rate of two bucketfuls to the sq. yd.

Loamy Soil Contain sand, silt and clay, in such well-balanced proportions that none produces a dominating influence. These are amongst the most fertile soils. Almost any crop can be grown in them. They warm up quickly in spring and rarely dry out in summer. Chalk Soil It fertility depends largely on the depth of soil overlaying the chalk bed formation. If the topsoil is thin the ground will be poor and hungry. It will be bone dry in summer and the plants will need far more watering and feeding than on any other soil. If however, it is fairly deep, good growing conditions are possible.

Peaty Soil It occurs in fen or boggy areas. Peat is composed of excessive quantities of humus and is associated with water-logging. The soil is usually very acid and contains few nutrients. It does have one advantage in that it warms up quickly in spring. It is excellent for plant growth if fertilizer is added.

Visit Gardening Information website and learn gardening tips. You will also discover which gardening tools match the tasks in your garden.

About the Author
Visit Gardening Information website and learn gardening tips. You will also discover which gardening tools match the tasks in your garden.

For more information on fairy ring and lawn care visit www.fairyring.ca

Lawn Care Tips

2006-01-21T15:36:00.000-07:00

Tips For Lawn Care by James Hunt

Proper lawn care includes such things as mowing, watering, fertilizing and the removal of weeds. The amount of care that you give to your lawn will depend on the lawn itself. It will depend on the type of grass, the weather and the type of soil that you have.

It is always a good idea to mow your lawn as often as possible. Mowing maintains a uniform height for all the plants. It also helps control the growth of the weeds by cutting off their seed-bearing stems. There are various types of mowers that can be used to create the perfect looking lawn; the one that you choose is completely up to you. No matter what kind of lawn mower that you use you should always take the time to sharpen the blades of your mower. Sharpening the blades will ensure that your grass is being cut, rather than just being broken off or pulled out.

Lawn care is not a simple task and it does require some time and effort. Mowing the lawn itself can be a tedious task. For example, new grass should not be mowed until it has grown to a height of two inches. After the first cutting however, it should be kept at a height of one and a half inches to two inches. Depending on the type of grass and the conditions in which it is growing, you could end up mowing your lawn quite frequently.

Lawn care also includes watering. The amount of water and the frequency of watering can and will vary considerably between lawns. Enough water should be applied to wet the soil and to a depth of four to six inches. It is very important that you soak the ground thoroughly. This is needed because light watering will encourage the roots to grow near the surface. This will result in the grass dieing in dry weather and the roots will be unable to reach the water deep down in the soil.

Fertilizing is also a major component in lawn care. This is important in maintaining a dense and healthy lawn. Most lawns need these major elements: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. All of these things can be found in lawn fertilizers. It is best to apply fertilizer twice during the year, in the early spring and then again in the late fall. In the early spring, fertilizer should be applied before the grass has started to grown ad while the soil is full of moisture. This helps the grass produce stronger and more extensive roots. Fall fertilizing, after the late season rains, help the grass recover from the summer hear and drought.

About the Author
James Hunt has spent 15 years as a professional writer and researcher covering stories that cover a whole spectrum of interest. Read more at www.lawn-care-guide.info

For more information on Lawn Care visit www.fairyring.ca

2006-01-17T16:18:00.000-07:00

Lawn Care Tips And Proper Lawn Maintenance by Evan Wooldridge

How much does the average person know about proper lawn maintenance? It may surprise you that the average person is fairly ignorant when it comes to properly caring for their lawn. Sure they can spray for weeds, and use big name lawn equipment, but what do they really know? Proper maintenance of one's lawn is much more than this. It enthralls taking what one already knows and tweaking it with new technique and knowledge. Once this type of mind set is reached only then can your lawn start to separate from the average run of the mill lawn. Watering your lawn is very easy and therefore common knowledge, but seeding and proper weeding may not be as readily known. Study everything you can find about lawn maintenance and become a student of this necessary past time.

When you take it to the next lawn care level as far as reading tips and tricks then you are ready to start applying them to your own lawn. It does no good to learn many wonderful and exciting tricks dealing with your grass if you are not going to take the first step. Start off slow in order to not burn yourself out then gradually build. In other words, you may not want to go out and purchase a bunch of expensive lawn equipment right off the bat. If you decide that you do not have an interest in lawn care then you will be stuck trying to sell name brand equipment at a discounted rate. Also, you may not wnat to over think things when it comes to your lawn. Too many times I have seen people get so far into the science behind lawn care to where lawn maintenance becomes more of a chore then past time.

Lastly and most importantly, have fun with what you learn. Do not be so regimented that you loose sight of your goal. This goal is of course having a beautiful yard full of life. This will give you the satisfaction of creating something from scratch and making it wonderful. Tips such as these can be found at www.lawn-care-guru.com along with many other insightful bits of information. Have fun and enjoy your new outlook on lawn care.

About the Author
I am Evan Wooldridge Author and Creator of Lawn Care Guru at http://www.lawn-care-guru.com and I am excited to bring quality lawn care tips and maintenance to the internet for free.

for more information on lawn care visit www.fairyring.ca

Lawn Aeration

2006-01-16T13:43:00.000-07:00

Landscape Techniques - Lawn Aeration by Henry Thompson

Landscape Techniques - Lawn Aeration Article by Henry Thompson Copyright © 2003 by ProGardenBiz ProGardenBiz, an online magazine http://www.progardenbiz.com

Aerate, in the context of landscape and grounds maintenance, means "to supply the soil with air". It is a contractor technique to aid in maintaining and improving lawns. Aeration improves the lawn appearance, usability, and it's ability to absorb water from irrigation. Aeration is important for the garden as well as the lawn, but the techniques for garden aeration are different than for lawns, and the subject for another column.

An aerator is the equipment that performs the work and it's a machine every gardener and landscape maintenance contractor should own. If you perform lawn maintenance or renovate lawns you need an aerator. Aeration is a standard component of any grounds maintenance program. For seasonal work you can rent the equipment. If you have a larger customer base you should consider adding an aerator to your contractor equipment. Landscape companies will generally find it more profitable to own the equipment instead of renting.

First let's discuss the need for aeration and the benefits of a regular aeration program in landscape maintenance.

Grass roots need air as well as water and fertilizer. The grass can actually poison itself as a result of the various chemical processes that occur in the individual grass plants if the grass roots do not have enough air. Soil that lacks sufficient air can result in; slow growth in the affected grass, excess irrigation runoff due to poor permeability, shallow root systems, and a lawn that's highly susceptible to insects, disease, and heat damage.

Soil compaction is the most common example of soil deficient in air. The growth habits of grass in compacted soil are shallow root development, a substantial decrease in the number of grass plants per square foot, and an inability to properly use applied fertilizers.

Soil compaction in lawns is caused primarily by pedestrian traffic, whether it is children playing in a playground or people taking shortcuts across a lawn. Stopping the use of the affected lawns is generally impractical. A better solution would be frequent aeration and, depending upon the composition of the soil, the application of lawn and garden amendments such as peat, sand, or gypsum.

The benefits of aeration are an increase in the:

- growth rate of the grass thus an improvement in its ability to withstand and recover from pedestrian use - ability of water and fertilizer to penetrate to the grass roots soil's absorption rate from irrigation - root growth activity contributing to the strength and health of the grass - ability of bacteria present in the soil to break down and decompose the thatch layer thus increasing the soils ability to hold sufficient amounts of moisture between waterings - grass's ability to withstand low water situations and heat stress

Aeration is a technique best applied in late summer or early fall for cool season grasses and in the spring for warm season grasses. This can also be a good time to overseed and topdress/ amend the aerated lawn. One drawback to aeration is that it increases the probability of weed infestation thus it can become important to include pre-emergent and post-emergent weed control measures. In addition to being beneficial to the lawn, these services are an add-on profit center for the landscape maintenance contractor. Aeration services are also often offered by garden centers and nursery businesses.

If you have a severely damaged lawn or a lawn area that undergoes heavy and frequent use you might consider aerating these areas several times throughout the year. Remember, aeration does damage the grass, so aerate "lightly" by using a slightly wider tine spacing or only one pass.

An aerator that pulls plugs is more effective than one that simply pokes holes. An aerator that pokes holes can further compact the soil. Soil compaction decrease the available air to the grass roots and causes excess irrigation run off. Either remove the plugs or break them up (use a mulching lawn mower or close the catcher chute on a standard mower). Always apply any amendment immediately to achieve maximum penetration of the amendments into the soil. The holes have a tendency to collapse especially if pedestrian traffic is difficult to keep off.

Contractor equipment varies from dedicated aerators that pull plugs to rototiller add-ons that simply poke holes. As discussed, pulling plugs is better. You will also find the dedicated aerator to be easier and more efficient to use.

Aeration is also a way for many landscape maintenance contractors, gardeners, and garden centers to make more money. Most offer the service to their customers as an additional service. Pricing and costs will vary. Some charge by the square foot, others by the job. The average price in Southern California is about $45.00 per 1,000 square feet for owner occupied single family residences. Other large landscape maintenance contractors offer aeration as part of the contracted service, especially for large residential communities where the single billing cost for aeration could be prohibitive. They calculate the cost of aerating and divide the result by the term of the contract (usually one year, 12 months) thus charging the customer a portion (1/12th) of the total cost each month. This makes the service affordable to the homeowner association or property management company and brings in more money to the contractor. The same technique could also be used by smaller lawn maintenance and gardening companies.

Aeration should be part of your grounds maintenance and irrigation service. Its an inexpensive way to improve your customers lawns and make more money. It also makes it easier to get those yearly increases in fees and keep customers longer. Happy customers pay much better than dissatisfied customers. Aerating really can make a big difference in the appearance of your customer's lawns! Competition in the Green Industry is strong and added services like aeration will help to put you out in front of your competitors.

__________________________________________

About the Author:

Henry Thompson is a Contributing Writer for ProGardenBiz Magazine, an online magazine for professional gardeners and landscape contractors. Visit ProGardenBiz to find out how you can get a free subscription, start-up guidance, business ideas and inspiration at http://www.progardenbiz.com.

For more information on lawn care and lawn related topics visit www.fairyring.ca__________________________________________

Watering Houseplants

2006-01-13T21:19:00.000-07:00

How to Water Your Houseplants Wisely
By: Kori Puckett

Over watering ranks first in causes of houseplant demise because it causes roots to rot. Most plants are tough so they can recover from under watering with only the loss of a few leaves -- unless you wait too long and pass the point of no return.

Watering schedules depend on the kind of houseplant, its size, container, and environment. No two plants have the same water requirements, so you'll need to know what your particular plant(s) require.

Generally, it's best to water during morning hours. Most flowering plants require more water than their non-flowering counterparts. Since the needs of individual plants vary greatly, you should research your houseplant's requirements.

Test dryness of soil by probing the top inch with your finger. Tapping the side of the post also indicates the degree of wetness. If the tap sounds hollow, the plant needs water. If it sounds solid, wait a day or two to water. If a plant begins to wilt and its soil looks dry and cracked, it needs water immediately.

For plants that require moderate watering, allow 1/2 to 1-inch of soil to dry out before re-watering. If a plant needs light watering, let two-thirds of the soil dry out. For plants that need heavy watering, the surface should always be moist.

You can water in several ways. A quick and easy method is to water from the surface with a watering can. Use a long-spout water can and water at room temperature. When water escapes through the bottom of a pot, the houseplant has had enough.

Pots also may be placed in a tray of water for about half an hour. This allows the soil to draw water in from drainage holes. Some plants, such as ferns, especially like this watering method.

During each watering, use enough water to completely soak the soil in the pot rather than simply wetting the surface. (Keep in mind when watering that hairy plants, such as African Violets, can be damaged if their leaves get wet).

Tap water is fine for plants, but it's a good idea to let the water stand in an open container overnight to allow it to come to room temperature and allow chlorine to evaporate. If your tap water has a high fluoride content, it is wise to use water from another source -- spring, well, rain water, distilled water, or water that has collected in a dehumidifier. You also can add perlite or limestone to your plant's soil to neutralize fluorides.

More steps to easily care for your house plants can be found at http://www.koripuckett.com/house-plant-care.

About The Author...
This article is published by Kori Puckett of www.koripuckett.com.

For more information on plant care visit www.fairyring.ca

2006-01-12T20:35:00.000-07:00

Tips for Saving Water for Your Landscaping by Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

Do you find your water bill going up each month you water your landscaping along with the rest of your bills? You might even question just how much water your landscaping really needs. Perhaps it's time for you to think about how to make your watering more efficient so you have beautiful landscaping but save water as well.

To water our landscaping, we use either some type of automated sprinkler system or a sprinkler that is dragged from spot to spot. Right from the big corporations right down to the homeowner with just a speck of a lawn, most people use or want to use some type of automated watering system. You have probably seen water from automated sprinkler systems running off the grass and running down the street. I don't know about you, but here in the arid West, when I see this, it makes me quite angry. This even can be seen in droughts where a typical homeowner may have to water his plants with saved waste water from inside his home. This is not exactly an efficient use of water. All around the country there are problems with having clean water. It just doesn't make sense to waste water.

Yet most landscaping owners use an inefficient and wasteful watering system. Here are a few tips to make watering your landscaping more efficient and less wasteful.

Watering systems for your landscaping vary. Find one that is most efficient for your needs. A good rule of thumb is that the larger the water drop delivered and the closer to the ground the better it is. Using a system that delivers a fine spray up into the air will lose much of the water to evaporation and to wind.

Surprisingly, hand held hose watering was found to be the most water-efficient way to provide moisture to your landscaping. It uses 33% less water than the average household uses to water their plants.

Studies found that of the automated watering systems, in ground sprinkler systems used 35% more and those with automatic timers use 47% more water than places that did not use such automated systems. These timesaving devices aren't saving you money or water.

Adding rain sensors, or better yet, soil sensors to your automated watering system saves water. You don't end up with the sprinkler system coming on in the middle of a rainstorm or right after one when the ground is already soaked.

Automated drip irrigation systems were found to be more efficient in the study using only 16% more than used by non-automated watering households. Add the above sensors and you will have an even better system.

Perhaps the best tip is to not over water. This goes to more than not watering after a rainstorm. It includes watering to your landscaping plants' specific moisture requirements. Consider including less water intensive plantings in your landscaping. It means watering, as your soil requires. Adjust your watering schedule from that needed in the high temperatures of summer to the less watering needed in fall as temperatures go down.

Copyright 2005, Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

About the Author
Want landscaping tips and information? Check out our Landscaping and Gardening info website at http://www.landscaping-and-gardening.info. Get all the latest information in the world of landscaping.

For more lawn care tips please visit www.fairyring.ca

" How to" for Lawns- Mowing

2006-01-12T12:59:00.000-07:00

"How to" for Lawns - Mowing by Brad Slade

How often you mow your lawn will depend on a number of factors. Firstly how much time you have to devote to your lawn's maintenance. How fast your lawn grows, and this in turn will depend on whether you fertilise it regularly and whether it receives adequate water and sunlight. Normally, lawns should be mowed at least one a fortnight to keep them in check, so to speak.

One of the worst things you can do for a lawn and a big misconception is that you can or should mow your lawn very short in order to reduce the number of times you have to mow it. Grass generally will do much better when mowed at a higher setting. This is especially the case in the summer months, where short grass can often be burnt by the sun otherwise. It is suggested that you should never be cutting or trimming off more than 1/3 of the length of the grass in a mowing session. If you have let your lawn go and it is far too long, it is recommended that you firstly mow it at a longer cut and then remow it at a slightly lower setting. If it is still too long, then you can go over it again in a couple of days time. Although this is time consuming it is the preferred method for caring for your lawn. Needless to say like having your hair cut, you should maintain your equipment. In this case make sure your mower blades are sharp and in good condition. Remove any stone or other obstructions from the lawn before mowing to avoid any damage to the mower or lawn.

Other recommendations for mowing a perfect lawn:

• Do mow in different directions, it does not matter which way - whether it is diagonal, horizontal, or vertically each time you mow your lawn. This prevents the grass blades from curving in a particular direction after numerous cuts.

• It is well known that you should never mow when your lawn is still wet. The reason for this, however, is not so well known. There are actually two reasons for this. Firstly, you will not be cutting your lawn evenly and when it dries may be a lot longer than expected. Secondly, you can often cause fungus to establish itself.

• For the lawn bowl look of a flatten smooth lawn larger lawn rollers can be purchased. To use these you simply roll them over your lawn after mowing in nice even and straight rows.

About the Author
HCOA is a directory of information on mowers, tractors, fertilizers, grass and outdoor appliances. For more information you can visit their website at http://www.hcoa.com.au

For more information on Fairy Rings visit www.fairyring.ca

Selecting A Pest Control Company

2006-01-11T14:14:00.000-07:00

Selecting a Pest Control Company
by Aldene Fredenburg
If you have a problem with unwanted pests in your home, and youve exhausted all the self-help remedies you know, you may be considering hiring a commercial pest control company to deal with the problem. Hiring a professional might be exactly the right solution for you; but you need to do your homework.
First, how do you locate a company? Checking the yellow pages of your local phone book might be a good start; doing a keyword search on the Internet for your area could also work, and you have the added benefit of seeing what information the company provides, on itself and on pest control generally. Ask friends and coworkers for recommendations
After youve developed a list of pest control services, and before you call these companies, start asking more questions of your friends and coworkers. Have any of them used these companies? What was their experience? Did the company in question solve their pest infestation issues? Were there any problems dealing with the company? Any problems in the home after the company performed their services?
Once youve narrowed down your list to a few potential providers, call them on the phone, and ask some more questions: does the company offer a free home evaluation and estimate of costs? Does it give you advice on what you can do to deal with the problem yourself? Is the company willing to answer questions readily?
Specific questions to ask: what kinds of chemicals are used? (If possible, have them provide written information on the chemicals.) What sorts of side effects or potential dangers do these chemicals have on family members, adults and children, and on pets? Do your family and household pets need to vacate the premises during the pest control treatment?
Make sure you ask whether the company offers nontoxic, natural pest control. The company should be willing to at least discuss the options; if its representative just dismisses the notion of nontoxic pest control without intelligently discussing the pros and cons of the natural remedies available, but just wants to get into your house and spray, beware!
With written information (or your own notes) in hand, do your own research on any chemicals that will be used - their effectiveness, their possible side effects, their potential toxicity. (The Internet is a great place to start for this.) If you have family members with serious health issues, particularly asthma or other respiratory ailments, make sure you know what the potential effect of sprayed compounds could have on them.
Finally, if you have any questions about the companys reliability, and you cant find anyone you know and whose judgment you trust to vouch for them, contact your local or state Better Business Bureau or Consumer Fraud Division, to find out whether there have been any complaints lodged against them.
Once youve hired a company make sure you know who is going to be showing up at your home and when. Make sure they have proper I.D., and ask if you can be there to supervise the process or if you have to leave, and for how long. And while youve got access to the professional treating your home, ask what you can do to avoid pest control problems in the future, particularly those involving destructive carpenter ants and termites. The guy (or gal) who actually does the work probably has insights into the subject that the office staff doesnt have.
Aldene Fredenburg is a freelance writer living in southwestern New Hampshire and frequently contributes to Tips and Topics. She may be reached at amfredenburg@yahoo.com.

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2006-01-11T14:00:00.000-07:00

Why Grow Grass?by John Merrill You may have asked yourself this question at one time or another. It's like a curious child's question that goes something like: Daddy, why is the sky blue? Daddy, what is the wind? or Daddy, why do Democrats hate Republicans? Uh...We grow grass for one reason: we can mow it. Grass is one of the few plants that can survive a good mowing, it even thrives on being mown. Ah, a contradiction of sorts. Any other plant, even most other grasses would die from being cut by a third every week. There are over 10,000 species of grass, yet only about 50 of those grasses are suitable for use in a lawn. These are what are called turf grasses. Why can a turf grass be regularly mown without dying and still maintain a healthy and attractive appearance? Unlike most plants, turf grasses grow from the base of the plant, down there just above the soil level at place called the crown. The growing zone is well below the sharpened rotating lawn mower blade. Other plants grow at the tips and don't respond well to being repeatedly cut.The process of mowing actually reduces the plants total leaf surface and this in turn reduces its ability to use photosynthesis. Photosynthesis is the process that takes carbon dioxide from the air (the stuff we exhale when we breathe) and turns it into carbohydrates that the plant uses for food. The food is the used to create more plant cells that go into either the leaf or the root system. When the plant looses some of this ability use photosynthesis, it overcompensates by producing additional leaves or by sending out additional roots that in some turf grasses, will send up a new grass plant. The result: an even thicker, denser lawn.So, the answer to the question "why grow grass?" is: because it's the one plant that adapts best for the environment we've created for ourselves. Now about those Democrats and Republicans...John Merrill is editor of Landscape-America.com and American-Lawns.com

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